Shoe upper and method of finishing



Dec. 1, 1942. Y E. QUINN ETAL 2,303,494

SHOE UPPER AND METHOD OF FINISHING 7 Filed Oct. 8, 1941 I gig 1 Paten'tecl Dec. 1, 1942 SHOE UPPER AND METHOD! OF FINISHING Edward Quinn, Saugus, and Adrien L. Ja'lbert,

Haverhill, Mass., assignorsto United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. JL, a corporation of New Jersey Application October 8, 1941, Serial No. 414,104

12 Claims. (Cl. 12-146) This invention relates to shoes and methods of making them and more particularly to the treatment of the top edges of shoe uppers;

Before attachment of a lining to a piece of upper material, the top edge of the upper mate- Y rial is usually finished either by folding the margin inwardly and securing the folded edge in place by an adhesive or by attaching a binding strip to the outer surface of the upper and folding the binding strip inwardly over the edge of the upper material. A lining is subsequently attached to the upper material, its top margin overlying the folded-overportion of the upper.

Whereas the edge of the upper material presents the concealment of the edge of the lining is not permanent.

In accordance with the present invention the -upp-er is so treated that an inwardly extending bead along the margin of the upper'material is formed during the folding operation which serves to conceal the edge of the lining after it is attached to the upper material. As shown herein and in accordance with a feature of the invention this bead may be formed by grooving the inner margin of the upper material to form a rib between the groove and the edge of the upper material and over which the margin of the upper material is folded. There is thus formed a bead having a finished surface against the under side of which the top edge of the lining is placed as it is top-stitched and the edge of the lining is thus permanently concealed during the life of the shoe. This and other features of the invention will now be described in detail and illustrated in the drawing, inwhich Fig. 1 is a section on a large scale through the top portion of a piece of upper material showing its treatment before the folding operation and before the attachment of the lining thereto;

Fig. 2 is a section through the top portion of acompleted upper treated as in Fig. 1;

Figs. 3 and 4 are views similar to Figs. 1 and 2 showing a modified form of the invention; and

Figs. 5 and 6 are views similar to Figs. 1 and 2 showing a still further form of the invention.

'IriFig. I, a piece of upper material Hi such as leather is skived on its'inner or flesh side at H2 in a customary manner to provide a feather edge and facilitate folding the margin of the upper material to provide a finished edge formed of the grain'surface. Inwardly of the skived portion is formeda groove l4 which is spaced from the skived portion 12 to form an inwardly extending rib l6 which extends substantially parallel to the edgeof the upper material. The skived portion is preferably coated with adhesive and is then folded inwardly as indicated in Fig. 2 to form with the rib IS an inwardly extending bead l8 having a finished surface formed of the same material as the surface of the exposed portion of the upper material. The height of this bead above the adjacent. surface of the upper material depends'uponv the depth of-the groove i4 and this is made sufiiciently deep so that the bead concealsihe top edge of a lining .20. subsequently ,attached to the upper material. The face, of the groove adjacent to the bead is substantially normal to the surface of the leather Whereas therother faceof the groove is inclined toward the midporti-on of the upper. This formation of .the groove permits the lining to lie smoothly within the groove 'as indicated in Fig. 2 withits edge concealed by the bead. The skived portion [2 is preferably of sufficient length so that the end of the folded portion will underlie the. lining as shown in Fig. 2 to insure permanence of the folded-over portion and of the bead formed thereby. The lining is preferably stitched to the upper material at 22, the stitches passing through the folded portion permanently to hold the lining andthe folded-over portion in place. I

I Figs. 3 and 4 illustrate the invention as applied "to an upper to which is secured a fiexible'binding strip. A piece of upper material 24 is providedwith a groove 26 inwardly of its edge, the margin of the upper material not being skived in this case so that arib 28 is formed by'the groove along the inner margin of the upper material. A binding strip 30 (Fig. 4) is secured by stitches 32 to the outer surface of the upper material after which it is folded inwardly around the edge of the upper material with the edge of the binding strip lying within the groove 26. This binding strip thus forms with the rib 28 an inwardly extending bead 34 the surface of which is entirely covered by the binkiing strip. A lining 36 may now be secured by stitching 38 to the upper material, the top edge of the lining being posi- 'tioned below and concealed by the bead thus formed. The grooving of the upper material inpreferably made relatively thin compared to the rest of the upper material and the folding of the upper material as indicated in Fig. 6 is soeffected that the rib 46 is folded into the groove 44. Accordingly, the scarf 42will'then extend inwardly substantially at right angles to the upper material after which it may be folded back upon itself and upon the adjacent surface of the rib 46 to form an inwardly extending bead 48 along f the edge of the upper material. The parts may be secured in the positions illustrated by'a' suitableadhesiveafter which a lining 50 is attached by stitching 52 with its edge concealed by the bead 48. Thestitching may pass through the end' of the folded-over scarf permanently to secure it in its folded-over condition thereby insuring permanence'of the bead.

It will thus beseen'that an upper treated as described herein forms a bead which conceals the top edge of the lining and is a'permanent part of the shoe so'that no other treatment of the lining is required to conceal its edge and it does not detract from the'finished appearance of the shoe. I

Having thus described the invention, what we claim as new and desire to secure by Letters marginal portion of the, upper inwardly over said rib to form a finished inwardly extending bead. 2. The methodof finishing a shoe upper which comprises forming a groove in the inner surface of a piece of upper material inwardly of the edge' and extending substantially parallel thereto to form an inwardly extending rib, folding the marsaid rib thereby forming an inwardly extending bead, and securing a lining to the upper material with its top edge underlying the bead thus formed and being concealed thereby.

comprises attaching a binding strip to the outer margin of a piece of upper material, forming a groove on'the inner'surface of the upper material inwardly of and adjacent to the edgeand sub-, stantially parallel thereto to form an inwardly extending rib, folding the binding strip inwardly over said rib to form a finished, inwardly extending bead, and attaching a lining to the upper material with its top edge'terminating below and being concealed by saidrib.

4. The method of finishing a shoe upper which comprises forming a shoulder scarf on the inner 'margin of a piece of upper material, forming a groove inwardly of and adjacent to said scarf thereby to form between the scarf and the groove an inwardly extending rib, folding the rib into said groove thereby turning the scarf portion inwardly, folding the scarf portion back upon itself with its margin lying against the inner surface I r ginal portion-of the upper material inwardly over v ,5 3. The methodv of finishing a shoe upper which of the upper material thereby forming an inwardly extending bead along the margin and attaching a lining to the upper material with its top edge lying below and concealed by said head.

5. A shoe upper including a piece of upper material having a groove on its inner surface spaced from the top edge thereof with one face normal to the surface and the other face inclined toward the mid-portion of the upper.

6. A shoe upper including a piece of upper material having a groove on its inner surface extending substantially parallel to and spaced from the top edge thereof, the adjacent material providing an inwardly extending rib, the marginal portion of the upper extending inwardly over said rib.

7. A shoe upper including a piece of upper material having a groove on its inner surface material having a groove on its inner surface extending substantially parallel to and spaced from the top edge thereof, the adjacent material providing an inwardly extending bead around the marginal portion, a binding strip attached to the outer surface of .the upper material and extending inwardly over said rib,. and a lining secured to the inner surface of theupper material, its top .edge terminating below and being concealed by said rib.

9. A'shoe upperincluding a piece of upper material having ashoulder scarf on its inner marginal portion and a groove inwardly of and adjacent to saidscarfto form an inwardly extending rib, said ribbeing folded into said groove and the scarf portionbeing folded back upon itself to form' an' inwardly extending bead around the top edge of the upper material, and a lining secured to the upper material, its top edge terminating below and being concealed by said bead.

10. A shoe upper including apiece of upper material having a groove on its inner surface extending substantially parallel to and spaced from the top edge thereof, the adjacent material providing an inwardly extending rib, the marginal. portion of the upper extending inwardly over said rib and terminating in saidgroove.

11. A shoe upper including a piece of upper -material having a groove on its inner surface i the groove.

12. A shoe upper including a piece of upper material having a groove on its inner surface spaced from the top edge thereof with one face of the groove normalto the surface and the other face inclined toward the mid-portion of the upper, the marginal portion of the upper extending inwardlyover the rib and terminating in the 'groove, and a lining secured to the upper material, its marginal portion overlying the edge of the upper in the groove and its top edge being .concealed by said rib.

EDWARD QUINN. .ADRIEN L. JALBERT. 

